Hiking the Himalayas: What to Know Before You Go Hiking Trekking
Surprise! You don’t have to be an extreme athlete to tackle Nepal.
When my friend Owen suggested last year that we go trekking in Nepal, I thought he was nuts. I’ve always considered myself adventurous but not an adventurer, the type who flies to the ultimate thrill-seeker’s destination, where badass climbers scale impossible mountains, wincing through blisters and blizzards. I was picturing Into Thin Air or a playground for the ultra-fit (and the ultra-rich). But on an eye-opening trip last October along some of the country’s most celebrated trails, I realized that Nepal is doable for just about everyone—as long as you know what you’re signing up for. Below, the answers to all the questions I had.
Has the country recovered from the April 2015 earthquakes?
In Kathmandu, many buildings and stupas remained in need of repair, and tidy piles of rubble lined the streets, but much of the city was back in action. In Namche Bazaar, a hub for trekkers, tourism was down 60 percent compared with the same period the year before, despite minimal damage. The town’s 50-plus lodges, including ours, were essentially vacant during our visit. Red Cross tents still dotted the village of Khumjung, and hosts at the teahouses were eager to see any foreign visitors at all.
Just how hard is the trekking?
Our itinerary called for four solid days of hiking—from Lukla, the gateway to Everest, northeast to Pangboche—a total of about 21 miles. From there, we’d travel by helicopter to see Everest Base Camp and the Khumbu Glacier, the world’s highest, by air. Though we walked for six hours some days, the pace was leisurely, with frequent stops for cups of masala chiya (a milky black tea common in the mountains) and photos of weathered prayer flags, mani stones (large rocks inscribed with mantras), and distant snowcapped peaks. There were moments when I stepped beyond my comfort zone—like the day a sketchy suspension bridge began to sway wildly as I crossed, high above the jade-hued Dudh Kosi River—but most days I felt an unexpected calm coupled with a definite sense of achievement.
Do you really need a guide?
Virtually every hiker travels with one, and we were no different—though our trip leader was hardly typical: Maya Sherpa was one of the first Nepalese women to summit K2, in 2014. With us were three Sherpas and two porters, who hauled most of our gear. The small pack I carried, stuffed with water and extra layers, weighed less than the purse I typically drag around Manhattan.
How were the lodges along the way? And what about the food?
I went expecting the European hostels of my youth, but most Nepalese lodges are like cozy New England B&Bs—minus the chintz—with hot towels on arrival, electric blankets, and indulgent breakfast spreads of delicious yak cheese and fried Tibetan bread. I even abandoned my morning coffee addiction and embraced masala chiya. For dinner, we feasted on Sherpa stew, a broth with flat wheat-flour noodles, spinach, carrots, and boiled potatoes. Most nights I was in bed by 9 p.m.—and sleeping more soundly than I had in years.
So when’s the best time to go?
September and October typically have the best weather: clear skies for mountain views and temperatures between 55 and 75 degrees, though higher elevations can see occasional snowstorms.
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